The best hiking routes in CHKO Český ráj

CHKO Āesk ráj is defined by its dramatic sandstone rock cities, where tall stone towers rise directly out of the pine forest. Unlike mountainous areas with long ridges, this landscape is a labyrinth of deep, cool ravines and high, flat-topped sandstone blocks. As you walk, you will constantly transition between dark, damp gorges where moss covers the rock faces and dry, sandy pine woods on the upper plateaus. The contrast is sharp and immediate, visible in the sudden temperature drops when descending into the narrow rock crevices.

Underfoot, the terrain varies between soft, deep sand on the main forest tracks and steep, uneven stone steps carved directly into the bedrock to reach the high viewpoints. Many of the narrower passages require squeezing through tight rock fissures and climbing metal ladders. While the lower paths are often wide and easy to follow, the climbs to the top of the rock towers are steep and require steady footing. The soil is highly permeable, meaning water drains quickly, leaving the sandy paths dry while the deep ravines remain damp and cool.

This is not a wilderness of empty horizons, but a managed landscape where ancient pine forests, medieval castle ruins, and timbered villages sit close together. The most famous rock formations, such as the Prachovské skály, are highly popular and can become very busy, especially during the summer months. To find quieter paths, you must head away from the main signposted loops into the smaller, less-promoted sandstone labyrinths where the pine needles muffle the sound of your steps.